Types of Chains: A Guide to Choosing the Right One

A chain looks simple until you're standing at a counter trying to decide between a dozen styles that all catch the light the same way. The difference isn't just appearance. Link construction affects how a chain moves, how it wears over time, and how it holds up to a clasp being worn every day for years. Here's what separates one type from the next.

Cable Chain

The cable chain is the standard against which most others are measured. Its links are uniform ovals, each one connected to the next at a right angle, which gives the chain a rounded, rope-like profile. It's strong for its weight and versatile enough to carry a pendant or stand alone. Most fine jewellery chains that don't have a more specific name are some version of a cable chain.

Curb Chain

Curb links are flattened and twisted so they lie against each other rather than standing upright, which gives the chain a slightly flatter, more textured look than cable. The interlocking structure makes curb chains noticeably strong, which is why they're a common choice for men's jewellery and for chains meant to carry heavier pendants.

Figaro Chain

Figaro chains follow a repeating pattern: a few smaller curb-style links followed by one longer, elongated link. That rhythm gives the chain visual movement without adding bulk. It's a style with real history in Italian jewellery-making, and it remains one of the more recognizable patterns for anyone who's spent time browsing chains.

Rope Chain

A rope chain is made from links twisted tightly together in a spiral, similar to actual rope. The result is a dense, textured surface that catches light from multiple angles as it moves. Because of how tightly it's constructed, a well-made rope chain tends to be heavier than a cable chain of the same length, which some people prefer as a mark of substance.

Box Chain

Box links are square, connected edge to edge so the chain has a smooth, almost seamless look when it's flat. It's a clean, understated style that works well layered with other chains since it doesn't compete visually with more textured designs. Box chains are also a common choice for pendants that need a chain sturdy enough to support them without adding visual weight.

Snake Chain

A snake chain is built from tightly fitted, overlapping plates rather than traditional links, giving it a smooth, almost liquid appearance with no visible separation between segments. It drapes close to the skin and moves fluidly, which makes it a popular choice for a minimal, modern look.

Ball Chain

Also called a bead chain, this style is made from small spheres connected by short bars or fine wire. The look is more casual and evenly textured than link-based chains, and it's often used for shorter, layered pieces rather than as a chain meant to stand alone.

Choosing Based on How You'll Wear It

If the chain is meant to carry a pendant, curb, cable, and box chains all offer the strength to support one without stretching or wearing unevenly at the clasp. If it's meant to be worn on its own, rope and figaro chains carry more visual interest without anything else attached. For layering, thinner box or snake chains sit well against each other without tangling the way heavier textured chains can.

The right chain comes down to how it will actually be worn day to day, not just how it looks under store lighting. If you're deciding between a few styles, bring in what you'd be pairing it with, whether that's a pendant, a watch, or another chain, and we'll help you find the one that actually holds up to how you live in it.